Back in Kampala... Again...

Hello! It the 24th and we're back in Kampala, the capital. still no bags! you'd be amazed how far one pair of jeans and underwear will get you these days...basically, we've resigned to thinking that we'll never see our bags again. Fine by us. After a few days of going back and forth to the airport, we decided to move on with things and head to Jinja, a town along the Nile. Everywhere we go we meet other travelers, each with their own recommendations. Our friends Annie and Winter recommended the Haven so off we went for two days. We took a matatu up (the trip was two hours). A matatu is the way that most people travel around in Uganda. It's a mini-van that probably holds 12 people normally but most are filled with 16-18. We got to the bus park and found Jinja "stage". At first we thought it was gong to be a roomy ride but after 45 minutes we were 16 adults, 4 children, and one chicken. We thought the chicken was dead but we came to realize it was just sedated...we got off in Njeru and took bodhas (mopeds) to the Haven. It was about a five mile ride...we turned off a dirt road and rode through a local, traditional village. The children scream, "Muzungo, how are you? I am fine" all at once, huge smiles on their faces. They cheer at the sight of muzungos. The Haven felt like a total oasis. Huge grass huts that peered out to the roaring rapids of the Nile. Absolutely beautiful! After being in Kampala and dealing with the luggage this was the perfect respite. We made friends with a man named Charles from the village (he works at the Haven). The next day he took us into the village for a 3 hour walk. Again, the children run out to greet but this time we were able to spend time with them. Their genuine joy is contagious--they seem to live a very simple life that is sustained mainly by farming and the selling of their crops. There are also a few shops and a few "joints" - places to get some beer and sugarcane liquor that they make in the village... We wonder what the effect of The Haven will be on these people. Rainer, the German owner and visionary of the resort, is 33 years old and bought the land for a song. He says that the locals find it worthless. It is just a view of the Nile. No place to plant crops. He says, "They don't even see the river; it's just water to them." We can't begin to decipher the reality of his perspective. of course, we will never hear the other side of the story. Anyway, he is worried that the local way of life will be too disrupted and he seemed genuinely upset when we told him that we bought the children biscuits (or, as they say, "bee-squeets") when we passed one of the village shops with them. He said that we really just need to "leave these people alone". Hmmm... We buy biscuits for a few children; he builds a hotel and offers tours through it via a local guide... Who is affecting the village more, we wonder? Kevin tells him that the natural impulse is to offer something when asked. He is silent.

The villagers asked us again and again for "snaps" - wanting their photos taken. Charles tells us that some are fearful that we are photojournalists who will return to the West and sell their images. We tell Charles that it is a legitimate fear on their part but that we will not sell anything. They ask if we can send back "copy-ays" - copies. We agree and take Charles last name and promise to send photos to him via the Haven... The people are so proud and dignified. The older men button up their shirts and take a very serious look on their faces when we aim the camera. The children smile shyly but with a bright gleam in their eyes. The women call and gesture for all of the family and neighbors to gather for the photos. Those who have been working and who have mud on their dresses, refuse.

Have we interacted too much? Should we not give? Should we walk through the village as if it is a theme park -- only taking what we want from them -- great memories, great stories to tell to all of you -- and giving nothing back? Contact has already been made. The Haven made sure of that. Is it wrong? The living standard of so many has been raised through work at the place. The villagers tell us what great pride they have that The Haven is there. "We are the only village where the muzungo come. We are very proud of this. The other villages look up to this village." But parts of their lifestyles, we feel sure, are already lost. It is complicated. More to say about this, to be sure. We will write again soon. And we promise, many photos to come!

A taxi is on the way to the Backpacker's Hostel, where we stayed last night, to take us to the old bus park downtown. It is 9 am. We are finally ready to go to Gulu. And we will really get there today! The newspapers say that all of the prices in the North have been doubled because the muzungos come for Christmas... Oy! Our taxi has been waiting for 20 minutes! We are off now. We think there is a computer shop in Gulu but it will most likely be closed for the holiday. More after...

Happy holidays to you all.

we miss you and love you. thanks to those who have commented. so fun to read. makes us feel connected. more soon..
aimee and kevin.